The historical center is surprising. The Convent and Church complex of St. Francis is impressive even by Olinda or Ouro Preto standards.
There are dune buggy tours along the beaches. To enjoy it at your leisure, rent a car. To the North, some of the natives’ favorite beachside stands are on Bessa beach. Intermares, in Cabedelo, attracts surfers. In Poço and Camboinhas, you can find boats to take you to the island of Areia Vermelha (Red Sand), which surfaces for just 20 days each month. To the South, the nudist beach Tambaba is the most famous, but Carapibus and Tabatinga are just as stunning.
At 4:30 PM, watch the sun set to the tune of Ravel’s Bolero at Jacaré beach, by the river. And then, savor the northeastern dinner at the Mangai restaurant.