GOL ­ João Pessoa - PB
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João Pessoa - PB

João Pessoa

Last secret

By Ricardo Freire

Every now and then, someone mentions the city of João Pessoa as the last undiscovered region in the Northeast. It’s partially true. The state of Paraíba remains less well-known than it should be. But those who do discover it fall in love – and never stop coming back.

As one of the oldest cities in Brazil, João Pessoa developed away from the ocean, on the shores of the Sanhauá River. The neighborhoods that line the beach are recent and follow intelligent urban planning that limits building height on the blocks close to the sea. There is an Atlantic Forest reserve within city limits, the Mata do Buraquinho, which raises the city’s amount of green space per capita.

It’s very easy to travel along the seaside – and to set off in search of new secrets, both to the North and to the South of the capital city.

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O que fazer em João Pessoa

The historical center is surprising. The Convent and Church complex of St. Francis is impressive even by Olinda or Ouro Preto standards.

There are dune buggy tours along the beaches. To enjoy it at your leisure, rent a car. To the North, some of the natives’ favorite beachside stands are on Bessa beach. Intermares, in Cabedelo, attracts surfers. In Poço and Camboinhas, you can find boats to take you to the island of Areia Vermelha (Red Sand), which surfaces for just 20 days each month. To the South, the nudist beach Tambaba is the most famous, but Carapibus and Tabatinga are just as stunning.

At 4:30 PM, watch the sun set to the tune of Ravel’s Bolero at Jacaré beach, by the river. And then, savor the northeastern dinner at the Mangai restaurant.

 

The greatest concentration of hotels in João Pessoa can be found at the beginning of the Cabo Branco beachfront. And not by accident: from there, you can walk to the Tambaú center, which is the heart of the city’s tourism – with bars, restaurants, tapioca tents, a crafts center, and meeting points for dune buggy rides and the trip to the Picãozinho natural pool.

Manaíra, the first neighborhood past Tambaú, is the city’s elegant commercial district. Those who stay around that area find themselves closer to bistros, restaurants and bars frequented mostly by local residents of João Pessoa.

Recently, new hotels have been cropping up along the southern coast, especially in Carapibus beach, 25 km (16 mi) from the central beaches. You can enjoy the most beautiful beaches in the state and visit João Pessoa whenever you like.

 

The driest season is from September to March. But the sun still hangs around in winter. The sea is most beautiful during the peak of summer, starting in December, when it acquires beautiful tones of green and blue.

Due to the excellent cost-benefit ratio of its hospitality services, João Pessoa is a good destination option for New Year’s. The pre-Carnival period is also lively, with street parades on the two weekends leading up to the party.

At any time of the year, be prepared to wake up early: the sun rises before 5 in the morning, and by 8 AM it is well overhead. In the early afternoon, coconut palms and sea cliffs offer a welcome bit of shade to bathers.

 

GOL flies four times a day to João Pessoa, with convenient connections from all cities served by GOL.

It is possible to issue a ticket from your city to João Pessoa for just 10,000 Smiles miles (or 20,000 on Smiles AnyDay). Check whether there are Reduced Miles or Smiles & Money promotions when you are planning to travel.

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