Temperatures are pleasant, tipping towards cold, during spring and fall. Summer is hot and humid. Winter is freezing.
Despite the heat, January and February, right before carnival, are good months for a visit. That’s when the pre-carnival parties happen to the sound of candombe and afro-Uruguayan drums, early Sunday night. (If you go during this period, book your flight for early Monday morning). On Carnival itself, however, the city shuts down.
An hour away by bus is Punta del Este, which peaks on Christmas and New Year’s. Off-season, only traditional restaurants and the casino remain open on the Peninsula.